How to Install a New Car Stereo

The most popular accessory that people put in their cars is a new car stereo. Having your car stereo professionally installed can be expensive. If you are already spending hundreds of dollars on your stereo deck, the idea of spending up to three hundred dollars more to have it installed can be intimidating. Not to worry, though. Installing your own car stereo can save you a lot of money, and it can look just as nice as a professional installation. All you need is a couple of tools, a few parts, and a little time.

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Let's go down the list of the things you will need to install your own car stereo.

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Car Stereo Installation Tool Kit: You can pick one of these up for under fifty bucks. You can probably get them for as low as twenty dollars, depending on where you buy it from. Make sure it has a DIN tool or pick one up separately. Without a DIN tool, you aren't going to be able to pull your original head unit out. Also, make sure your tool kit has a multimeter, wire strippers and crimpers, splicing connectors, and electrical tape. It is also a good idea to get one that includes the tools you need to remove the pieces of your dash's trim safely. (The DIN tool is the most common tool for pulling out your stereo deck. Your car may need a different tool. Ask your stereo salesman about your car.)

In-Dash Receiver Kit: You need to pick this up especially made for your car. You can get universal ones if you have an older car, but if you have a newer car with climate controls or any other controls built into the stereo's trim, you will need to order one specifically made for your car. You can usually pick these up for under thirty dollars from online retailers like JC Whitney or Crutchfield.

Wiring Harness Adapter: Most cars today have a simple plastic connection that plugs in all of your stereo wires. Your speakers, antenna, power controls, and auxiliary hook-ups are usually all bundled into one or two connections. With a wiring harness adapter made specifically for your car, hooking up all of your wires can literally be as simple as a snap.

Your Car Stereo: If you haven't already got a car stereo you want to install or you are still undecided on what to buy, be sure you check with the retailer to make sure that it can fit in your car's dash. Most stereos are compatible with most cars, but some stereos are oversized and made to fit only a few cars.

Time: Be sure you start this project on a day where you have a few hours. Once you get started, you will not be able to stop until you are finished. It may not even take a few hours, but you should still set aside the time so you can enjoy your new tunes.

When you are installing a car stereo, there are a few safety measures we need to go over. You want to make sure that you are doing this in a dry area. Water and electronics don't mix. You also need to disconnect your negative battery cable under the hood. You disconnect this to protect your car, your new stereo, and yourself from electrical current and shorts while you are working. In my younger days, I did burn up a stereo by being hasty and skipping this important step. Now I make sure that the battery is disconnected before I work on any electrical component of the car.

Now that we have all the tools and parts we need and we know all about safety concerns, we can get to work on installing your new car stereo.

Disconnect the Battery: You should loosen and disconnect your NEGATIVE battery cable. Disconnecting the positive cable is not necessary.

Remove the old car stereo: Use your DIN tools to remove the old car stereo. There are holes on the sides for you to insert the tools into. Once you have them all the way in, put outwards pressure on the tools and pull gently, but firmly. Once you have it a little out, you should be able to grab the sides and support the weight of the old stereo while you pull it all the way out. Once you have it out, unhook all of the connections and set your old stereo to the side. (If you are using something other than the DIN tool, these work in the same fashion.)

Install Wiring Harness Adapters: Now that your stereo is out, all of your wires are exposed. This is the time to hook up the adapters you got for your car. Your wiring harness adapter probably has instructions designed just for your car. If you need to do any splicing, be sure you use splice connectors, electrical tape, or heat shrink tube. If you leave any exposed wire, it can cause your sound to be distorted, or even worse, short out your new stereo.

Install Your In-Dash Receiver Kit: If your car needs a kit, follow the supplied instructions carefully. Use the trim removal tools to disassemble the areas around your stereo. Your new pieces should snap in easily. You would need one of these in case your car has anything molded into the stereo's faceplate, like climate controls. Most newer cars would probably use this kit.

Install Mounting Sleeve: Your car should be ready to have the mounting sleeve installed. This is a little "cage" type thing that locks into your dash. Simply slide it in and bend the appropriate tabs to lock it into place. Once you are done with that, it is a good idea to get your wires organized and easily accessible. Next, you are going to put your new stereo in!

Install Your New Stereo: By this time, your dash should look normal, except for a big rectangle hole in it. Take your new wiring harness adapter and plug it into the back of your stereo. There may be a couple of different connections and your antenna. Once those are all plugged in, tuck the excess wire neatly into the dash and then slide in your new stereo until it locks.

Hook Up Your Battery: Be sure and reconnect the battery cable. Be sure you tighten it up really snug, too. Loose battery connections are a leading cause of electrical problems.

Now it is time to take your new car stereo out for a spin. Well, it may be a better idea to sit in the driveway for a bit and get used to the controls. A lot of people spend hundreds of dollars to have their car stereo professionally installed. Now you can save a bundle by installing your own car stereo on a Saturday afternoon.

How to Install a New Car Stereo
Cable Porter

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 13904 5-Inch Hook and Loop Pad (for Model 333 Sander) 2011 Deals

Dec 06, 2011 22:27:03

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 13904 5-Inch Hook and Loop Pad (for Model 333 Sander) Deals
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Porter-Cable 13904 5-Inch Hook and Loop Pad (for Model 333 Sander)

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Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 13904 5-Inch Hook and Loop Pad (for Model 333 Sander) Feature

  • Standard replacement pad for Porter-Cable 333 Random Orbit sander
  • Ultra convenient dust collection feature
  • Easy screw-on installation
  • Five-inch diameter
  • Prevents damage to disc holders


Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 13904 5-Inch Hook and Loop Pad (for Model 333 Sander) Overview

Prevent damage to your disc holder with the Porter-Cable 13904 5-inch hook-and-loop pad, the standard replacement pad for the Porter-Cable 333 random orbit sander. Enjoy the convenience of the five-hole dust collection feature and easy screw-on installation using the screws of your sander. The hook-and-loop pad accommodates 5-inch hook-and-loop discs and is sold individually.



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Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit 2011 Deals

Dec 06, 2011 00:49:58

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit Deals
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Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit

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Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit Feature

  • 150 psi max tank pressure stores more air in the tank for longer tool run times
  • 2.6 SCFM at 90 psi allows for quick compressor recovery time, per ISO1217
  • Air coupler and plug are factory installed on the air hose to save user labor and to prevent leaks
  • 6-gallon pancake-style tank for stability includes water drain valve and rubber feet
  • Low-amp 120-volt motor starts easily in cold weather or with an extension cord
  • Equipped with a durable oil-free pump for long life and no maintenance
  • Shroud, handle, and console cover protect vital components and make unit easier to carry


Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit Overview

This highly portable oil free pancake-style air compressor packs a punch with an induction motor that provides improved performance and extended life, whether you're filling tires or firing a nailer. Complete with a soft-start motor, the C2002-WK can easily run off of normal household circuits and is able to run at 3.5 SCFM for faster recharge of its 6-gallon tank. The motor features replaceable brushes in order to extend motor life and 150 PSI max pressure to allow for extended run time. It also includes 120 PSI cut-in pressure that provides 30 PSI "Bonus Air" and High-Flo air regulator to protect against a large pressure drop. The C2002-WK includes a 13-Piece Accessory Kit with a 25-foot nylon hose, blow gun and attachments, tire chuck, tire gauge, quick coupler, plugs and Teflon tape.



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Porter-Cable C1010 Heavy-Duty 1-Gallon 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C1010 Heavy-Duty 1-Gallon 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor 2011 Deals

Dec 05, 2011 04:04:47

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C1010 Heavy-Duty 1-Gallon 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor Deals
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Porter-Cable C1010 Heavy-Duty 1-Gallon 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor

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Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C1010 Heavy-Duty 1-Gallon 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor Feature

  • 0.75 SCFM delivered at 90 PSI; one-gallon tank and 135 PSI max enable surge performance with quick recovery
  • Durable, maintenance-free pump ensures ease of use and long product life
  • Low 71 dBA for quiet operation; 2.6-amp draw for easy start up and reduced breaker tripping
  • High-flow regulator provides maximum performance
  • Light weight (23 pounds) and compact design (9 inches tall) for convenient storage and transport


Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C1010 Heavy-Duty 1-Gallon 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor Overview

Includes 135 PSI, 1 Gal. Oil-Free Quiet Trim Compressor - C1010, Quick-Connect Couplers, Air Regulator & Gauges, Operating Manual, Limited One-Year Warranty

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable C1010 Heavy-Duty 1-Gallon 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor Specifications

Porter-Cable’s C1010 heavy-duty one-gallon 135 PSI max quiet trim compressor is ideal for finish carpenters, remodelers, and woodworkers completing trim work, custom furniture or storage installation, cabinet finishing, and new plumbing line pressure testing. Its quiet operation at 71 decibels translates into less disruptive noise while working. Weighing just 23 pounds and measuring only 9 inches tall, the C1010 is easily portable and allows users to carry it from job site to work shop to garage to yard to home without hassle.

At a Glance
C1010 Heavy-Duty
One-Gallon 135 PSI Max
Quiet Trim Compressor
At a Glance:

  • Delivers 3/4 SCFM at 90 PSI; 135 PSI max allows for surge performance and speedy recovery

  • Lightweight design (weighs 23 pounds and measures 9 inches tall) makes for easy portability

  • Specifications: 120 volts, 2.6 amps, one-gallon tank, .3 running horsepower

  • Backed by a limited one-year warranty
At a Glance
Porter-Cable C1010
Porter-Cable's C1010 compressor is heavy duty but lightweight enough to carry easily on the job site (view larger).
Peak Performance
The C1010 yields air at 3/4 standard feet per cubic minute (SCFM) at 90 PSI with a max PSI of 135, thus providing high-surge performance with a speedy 20-second recovery. Its 2.6-amp motor powers an easy start-up even in frigid temperatures or with use via an extension cord. The high-flow regulator delivers maximum air pressure, improving job-site performance. The C1010 is also furnished with an oil-free long-life pump that rids the need to check or refill the pump—plus, it keeps the work site clean by eliminating oil spills and leaks. It’s also ideal for use in any internal environment because of its quieter operation (at 71 decibels) that allows users to hold conversations even while the unit is in use.

Easy Portability
The C1010’s compact design lends itself to convenient portability from job site to job site. Weighing only 23 pounds and measuring nine inches wide, its slender suitcase-style design allows it to be easily stored and transported in the backseat of work vans and trucks. Operation is easy thanks to a one-hand universal quick connect feature for efficiency. Its ball drain valve makes for swift and comprehensive tank draining. Storage is made simple thanks to a convenient cord wrap feature built into the compressor.

Durable Construction
Porter-Cable’s pioneering roll cage and full-protection frame design safeguards the C1010 from typical wear and tear as well as any unintentional damage on the job site. The metal control panel covers the air manifold to further shield the compressor’s key mechanisms.

What's in the Box
One Porter-Cable C1010 heavy-duty one-gallon 135 PSI max quiet trim compressor, quick-connect couplers, air regulators and gauges, and an operating manual.

Porter-Cable C1010Porter-Cable C1010Porter-Cable C1010
The C1010's durable construction and compact design make it easy to transport to any job site in order to tackle a variety of applications (click each to enlarge).


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How to Choose an Oil Free Compressor

Air compressors are widely available in oil-less and lubricated models and choosing the correct unit for your application can be a difficult decision.

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The key differences are that conventional lubricated units require oil to operate and need to be monitored just like a car engine. However, these units are generally more durable than their oil-free cousins and perform best in continuous, heavy use environments.

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Oil-less air compressors, on the other hand, are ideal for lower volume applications, are low maintenance and can work at steep angles where lubricated units struggle.

Oil free compressors are ideal for certain situations. For example, when the air is used in a medical or clean room environment, it is vital that the air that comes from the compressor is free of oil. There are a few options that you have when choosing a suitable unit for your application.

Some are designed specifically for these needs and are generally much quieter than their non-oil free counterparts. Usually these are used indoors where noise levels are an important consideration.

The decisions you will make when purchasing or hiring an oil free compressor are basically the same as you would make for an oiled compressor. You need to determine how much airflow, air pressure and noise level that you need for the unit you choose. However, there are some key differences that you should take into consideration.

The first thing that is different about these two types of compressors is the working temperature. Typically, oil free units run hotter than those lubricated with oil. Consider the amount of work that you will require from you unit. This is an important consideration when you are choosing to buy one. If you must run your air compressor for long periods of time, make certain that it can handle the workload.

Air filters can eliminate the lubricating oil from reaching the air that is operating your tools. If you are working with paint it is important that the air that is operating your spray tool be free of oil or you will end up with oil in the paint. A filter can often resolve this problem.

It is important that you select the right filter for your unit or you will be spending a great deal of time dealing with a clogged compressor and poor performance from your tools. Some of the considerations needed for choosing a filter are the quality of the air, the size of the compressor and your airflow needs. Choose the wrong filter for your requirements and you will simply end up wasting a great deal of time unclogging your equipment.

Cost is obviously a consideration when choosing oil free compressors. In the past they were usually more expensive than those that were lubricated with oil, but in recent times the costs are becoming much more comparable. Make sure you are getting the compressor that offers you the most airflow, air pressure and filtering for your money.

Unless you have past experience of using an oil free compressor it is highly recommended that you seek professional advise which can usually be found at the point of purchase.

How to Choose an Oil Free Compressor
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Color Electronic Whiteboard

Woodworking 101 - How to Properly Edge-Glue Boards Into Panels

There are several steps to consider in the process of edge-gluing lumber including (1) lumber selection, (2) cutting to rough length, (3) ripping, (4) jointing, (5) grain matching, (6) biscuit joining, (7) gluing, (8) clamping and (9) thickness sanding. Just how you go about these steps depends on the condition of the lumber, the capacity of your machinery and the final size of the glue-up.

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LUMBER SELECTION:

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If at all possible, try to have all boards in the glue-up out of the same tree. If that is not possible, select lumber that is of similar color and grain pattern. To my mind, the ideal glue-up looks like one, extremely wide board with the glue joints barely visible to the naked eye. Since this only an ideal, I always try to get as close to it as possible.

Another, less-important goal would be to have all boards in the glue-up of the same approximate width. I am not suggesting ripping the wider boards down to match the narrowest board as this would be a terrible waste of expensive lumber. I do suggest, however, ripping extremely wide boards in two to minimize the possibility of curling due to changes in humidity after delivery.

Straight or ribbon grain makes the best homogeneous final appearance while wavy or swirly grain makes for an interesting but more difficult glue-up. Swirly grain will require orientation of the individual boards to minimize the number of places that the grain line suddenly stops at the glue line rather than appearing to continue into another swirl in the adjacent board. This orientation is highly subjective.

CROSS-CUTTING TO ROUGH LENGTH

I always rough-cut my lumber into lengths an inch longer than the length of the final product. This allows the entire glue-up to be neatly trimmed to size after the glue is dry. It also makes the ripping and jointing process a lot easier as I will explain below. The same is true for the width of the glue up: Make sure it is about an inch wider than the final product after trimming.

RIPPING

Kiln or air-dried lumber often decides to bow into a curve as it dries and this must be corrected before a glue-up can be accomplished. If my finished glue-up is only 3 feet long and it is coming out of a 14-foot bowed board, it will be far easier and economical to get the curve out of the 3-foot pieces than it would to remove the curve from the entire 14-foot board before cross cutting. This is one reason that you should always do your rough cross-cutting before ripping and jointing. Another reason is that a 14-foot, 2" thick x 12" wide board is pretty difficult to control on a jointer or table saw.

If there is a bow in one or more of your rough-cut pieces, those pieces should first have the curved edges ripped off on the table saw. The concave side of the board should always be towards the fence. Measure from the fence out to the outside of the end of the board that is nearest the fence and set the fence to cut this width. Once you have trimmed off the convex side of the board, flip it over side-to-side and find the point where the outer edge of the board is closest to the fence (somewhere near the middle) and rip the board to that width. When all boards have been ripped straight, take them to the jointer.

JOINTING

The jointing process should now be fairly easy in that the boards have been ripped straight. Take shallow depth cuts to minimize the possibility of tear-out. In loose-grained lumber with a lot of swirls on the face side, tear-out is sometimes unavoidable. If this happens, try running the board over the jointer head in the opposite direction. If the tear-outs persist, you will have no other option than to rip the tear-outs away on the table saw. You will then have a sawn edge in your glue-up. If you have a clean-cutting table saw blade like a recently sharpened Forrest Woodworker II, this should not be much of a problem, especially if you plan on using a biscuit joiner to secure your glue-up. You probably won't be able to tell which glue lines are jointed and which are ripped in the final product.

GRAIN MATCHING

Lay out all the boards on your work bench and arrange them for best appearance. Obviously, if one side of the final product will show more than the other in a piece of furniture, then you will want to have the best-looking sides all on that side of the glue-up. Examples of this would be table tops and cabinet doors. You also must orient the boards so that the glue-lines are not accentuated, as discussed in the paragraph on lumber selection above.

BISCUIT JOINING

Whenever possible, make sure that you biscuit-join your glue-ups. I say, "Whenever possible" because you will not be able to use a biscuit joiner on very thin lumber. On the other hand, very thin lumber (3/8", for instance) does not usually have enough strength to pop open a joint. So, with very thin lumber, you will simply be using glue without biscuits. With regard to lumber ¾" or thicker, I have seen a number of table tops, cabinet doors and cabinet casings open up along a glue line after delivery. At this point, repairs are difficult or impossible so the extra step of biscuit joining is well worth the minor time and expense. Look on it as major headache insurance! If you don't yet own a biscuit joiner, there are a number of great machines out there including Porter Cable, Lamello and Freud. There are also two good alternatives to using a biscuit jointer: Those are the Festool Domino floating tenon joiner and the Freud Doweling Joiner. Different methods, same result.

When you have your boards laid out the way you want them in the glue-up, make sure all the ends are flush and the edge joints are touching. Double-check to make sure the glue-up will be about an inch wider than the final product after trimming. With a builder's square or a straightedge mark a pencil line in 4" in from each end of the rough glue-up across the grain, crossing all glue lines but not continuing over the side edges of the glue-up. Make a similar pencil line across the grain at the mid-point of the boards. Make additional pencil lines half-way between the other pencil lines until all pencil lines are about 6" apart.

Mark the boards on one end "A","B","C" or "1","2","3", etc. so that you can put them back together in the same order when it is time to glue them up. Put the boards aside and nail, screw or clamp a stop board (scrap) to the bench top, left to right in front of you and about a foot in from the edge of the bench. As you are applying pressure with the biscuit jointer, while making mortises for the biscuits, this stop board will keep the board you are mortising from moving away from you. Make a mortise wherever a pencil line touches a board edge on every board.

GLUE-UP AND CLAMPING

There are two ways to clamp up a glue-up: horizontally on the bench top and vertically with the first board mortised-edge-up in a woodworking vise on the end or side of the bench. In the case of horizontal glue up, place pipe or bar clamps about 2 feet apart on the bench top with the clamp handles hanging slightly over the edge of the bench. Pre-adjust the clamps to an inch larger opening than they will be when tightened. Place the first board on edge on top of and across the clamps with the mortises facing up. Do the same with all the boards, in order. Make sure you have sufficient biscuits for the job ready.

A small dispensing glue bottle with sufficient glue for the job should be within easy reach. The type of glue is important: If the glue dries too quickly you will have big problems and if the glue dries too slowly, you will be losing valuable production time. I like to use Franklin Titebond Glue indoors or Franklin Titebond II for outdoor applications. These are "aliphatic resin" type glues that can be easily cleaned up with water. Ether formula gives a very strong joint and has a reasonable, 45-minute clamping time. Both of these glues are widely available in hardware stores, home improvement centers and woodworking stores.

Run about a 1/8"-thick glue line down the center of the edge of the first board, making sure that the glue drops into every biscuit mortise along the way. Then apply short glue lines on both sides of every mortise. This should result in sufficient glue so that it appears squeezed out of both sides of every glue joint after clamping. Insert a biscuit into each mortise. With 2" lumber, you may need an extra glue line for the full length of the joint. There is no such thing as too much glue because you can wipe up the excess with a wet rag. There is, however such a thing as not enough glue and you will recognize that condition when you see that glue is not being squeezed out of the full length of both sides of the glue joint. That is called "starving the joint" and starved joints often open up later. Glue is cheap! Don't skimp on it!

Lay down the first board with the letter or number up and the mortised edge away from you. Apply glue in the same manner to each succeeding board wherever there are mortises and place biscuits in the far edge of each board, except, of course the last board.

The board ends should be flush and the left clamp should be about 6" in from the end. The right clamp should be about 1-foot six inches in from the right end. This is because you will be placing alternately spaced clamps on the top side of the glue-up so that there is a clamp (top or bottom) about every foot. The top, right clamp will be in about 6" from the right end.

Once you have all of this in place, start tightening the clamp handles. Clamp all the bottom clamps finger tight, then the top clamps finger tight. Then, go down the row of clamps tightening them fully, bottom, top, bottom, top, etc. With a wet rag, wipe off most of the excess glue. Turn over the entire glue-up and wipe the other side. Look at your watch or clock and add 45 minutes to the time. This will be the minimum clamping time, any time after which you may remove the glue-up from the clamps. Mark this time on the glue-up with a felt pen. If you have multiple glue-ups, you can stand this glue-up against a wall to get it out of the way while it dries.

If you have been paying attention to the above, then you can figure out how to do a vertical glue-up in a vise which is suitable for smaller glue-ups and is easier to manage. The difference is that when it comes time to apply the glue, you will clamp the first board at its center in the vise with the mortises facing up. Apply the glue and biscuits. Apply glue to the mating edge of the second board and place it in correct orientation on top of the first board, and so on. Place the first clamp 6" in from the end, in front, the second clamp a foot away from the first clamp, in back and so on.

Once your glue-up is out of the clamps, it is ready to be thickness sanded either in a drum sander or wide-belt sander. If you don't have either of these machines, don't worry. Most professional furniture-manufacturing shops in your area will be happy to thickness sand your glue-ups for an hourly rate. You might want to consider buying your own drum sander or wide-belt sander, if you can justify the expense.

It is best to know the maximum width capacity of the sanding machine you will be using: 48"-wide glue-ups will not pass through a 36"-wide sander. If you know that you will have this limitation in advance, simply make two, 24" glue-ups and glue those together with biscuits after the thickness sanding is complete. The glue line won't be perfectly even and so it will have to be sanded true with a random orbit sander. Your glue-up should be sanded to at least 150 grit. 220 grit is even better. Trim the glue-up on the table saw to its final dimensions, rout the edges, if appropriate, and then random orbit sand the final piece to 220 or 320 grit before finishing.

For some woodworkers, gluing up lumber may not be the most interesting part of the craft. It is one of the most important, however, because a glue-up done incorrectly can be a recipe for disaster. Furthermore, the way you orient the boards in the glue-up will have a lasting and irreversible effect of the beauty of the finished project.

Bob Gillespie

Woodworker

©2010 Robert M. Gillespie, Jr.

Woodworking 101 - How to Properly Edge-Glue Boards Into Panels
Cable Porter

12 Volt Cordless Drill Roku Video Player Stereoscopic 3D

Bare-Tool Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only, No Battery)

Cyber Monday Bare-Tool Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) 2011 Deals

Dec 02, 2011 12:02:02

Cyber Monday Bare-Tool Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Deals
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Bare-Tool Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only, No Battery)

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Cyber Monday Bare-Tool Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Feature

  • Tool-Free Shoe with 0, 45 degree Bevel Stops Provides Hassle-Free Transitions from Straight to 45° Bevel Cuts
  • 3-position orbital control provides versatility for a wide range of cutting applications
  • 2,500 spm For Fast and Smooth Cutting
  • Tool-Free Blade Clamp Allows for Quick Blade Changes without Touching a Hot Blade
  • Durable and accurate steel shoe


Cyber Monday Bare-Tool Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Overview

Includes Tradesman 18V Cordless Jig Saw (Bare Tool) - PC18JS, Wood Cutting Blade, Detachable Vacuum Port

Cyber Monday Bare-Tool Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Specifications

Porter-Cable's PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw has a handy tool-free shoe combined with a vacuum attachment port. These, plus the saw’s other well-designed features, make the PC18JS an ideal saw for carpenters, contractors, woodworkers, home DIY enthusiasts, and anyone who would like to increase their range of cutting possibilities.

At a Glance
PC18JS 18-Volt Cordless Jig Saw
At a Glance:

  • Specifications: 18 volts, 0 – 2,500 spm, 3/4-inch stroke length

  • Tool-free steel shoe goes from 0 degree cuts to 45 degree cuts

  • Three-position orbital control alters the blade angle as needed

  • Variable-speed trigger ensures quick and consistent cutting

  • Compatible with Porter-Cable 18-volt lithium or NiCad batteries
At a Glance
Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw
Porter-Cable’s PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw has a tool-free shoe and a vacuum attachment port (view larger).
Fast and Reliable Cutting
Porter-Cable’s PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw has a tool-free steel shoe that makes it possible and easy to go from 0 degree straight cuts to 45 degree bevel cuts. Its three-position orbital control alters the blade angle, adding flexibility for a larger array of cutting situations and letting the user make the decision to choose between faster or smoother cutting depending on the job at hand. In addition, the saw’s variable-speed trigger helps to ensure quick and consistent cutting.

A Host of Helpful Features
With a handy vacuum attachment port, using Porter-Cable’s PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw involves a reduced amount of airborne dust and a cutting path that’s clear of excess debris. The saw’s tool-free blade release means it’s a snap to change the blades and that a user doesn’t have to worry about bumping a hot blade--this also adds an extra level of safety.

Dimensions and Warranty
Porter-Cable’s PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw measures 12.7 by 8.6 by 3.9 inches and weighs 4 pounds. It comes with a 3-year limited warranty, a 1-year free service contract, and a 90 day money back guarantee.

About Porter-Cable
At the forefront of technological advances for over 95 years, Porter-Cable has introduced such noteworthy products as the world's first portable belt sander in 1926 and the first right-hand, helical-gear circular saw in 1929. This passion for progress flows through every product Porter-Cable offers. Their product line is the result of a dedicated team of researchers and engineers listening to what tool users have to say, constantly looking for ways to improve existing tools and dream up new ones. The company designs, manufactures, and distributes electric and cordless power tools, pneumatic tools and compressors, pressure washers, generators and related accessories for the professional woodworking, commercial/residential construction, plumbing, and electrical markets.

What's in the Box
One Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw, wood cutting blade, vacuum attachment port.


Porter-Cable PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig sawPorter-Cable PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig sawPorter-Cable PC18JS 18-volt cordless jig saw
Porter-Cable’s PC18JS jig saw has a three-position orbital control, variable-speed trigger, and vacuum attachment port (click each to enlarge).


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Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router 2011 Deals

Dec 01, 2011 14:44:26

Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router Deals
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Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router

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Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router Feature

  • 11 amp motor producing 1-3/4 peak hp, 27,500 rpm single speed motor
  • Precision machined aluminum motor housing and base
  • Cam lock lever enables simple coarse height adjustments and motor release (fixed base)
  • Micrometer depth adjuster accurate to 1/128-inch
  • Dust-sealed switch and sealed ball bearing construction enhance tool durability


Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router Overview

Powerful and efficient, the Porter-Cable 690LR Fixed-Base Router utilizes a hefty 1-3/4-horsepower motor to generate an impressive 27,500 rpm for precise cuts. Two ergonomic handles are strategically placed to make routing easy and comfortable, even during all-day jobs. For added convenience, the router includes collets that will accept 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch shank bits.

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690LR Fixed-Base Router
At a Glance:
  • Single-speed router with
    1-3/4-horsepower motor generates 27,500 rpm for easy routing

  • Fast, precise coarse adjustments via spiral can design and cam-lock lever

  • Auto-release collet system for easy bit removal

  • Five-year warranty
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Porter-Cable Fixed-Base Router

1-3/4-horsepower router makes precision cuts in a wide variety of woods. View larger.
Powerful and Precise
An essential addition to any woodworking shop, the router owes its robust performance to a single-speed, 11 amp motor that produces 1-3/4 peak horsepower to handle a range of jobs. For consistent, steady performance, the cam-lock lever enables simple coarse height adjustments. A quick fixed-base motor release allows th user to move the motor pack between plunge and d-handle bases (each sold seperately). Accurate to within 1/128 inch, a micro depth adjustor ensures optimum precision.

Rugged Construction with Dust-Sealed Components
As durable as it is efficient, the router features a precision-machined aluminum motor housing and base. A dust-sealed switch and sealed ball-bearing construction guard against wear and tear--even in a hardworking shop or busy jobsite.

Fast Bit Removal and Ergonomic Design for Stability and Comfort
For user-friendly performance and consistency, the router includes an auto-release collet system for easy bit removal. An under-table stop prevents the motor from inadvertantly rotating out of the base, and ergonomic molded grips keep your hands and wrists comfortable, even during extended jobs.

Dimensions and Warranty Information
The 690LR Fixed-Base Router measures 12.0 by 5.50 by 8.62 inches (L x W x H), weighs 8.0 pounds, and is backed by a three-year warranty.

What's in the Box
Router with motor, fixed base, 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch collets, collet wrench, and operating manual.


Porter-Cable Fixed-Base Router
Aluminum motor housing and base
for stability during operation.
Porter-Cable Fixed-Base Router
Auto-release collet system
for easy bit removal.





SAVE NOW on Cyber Monday offers below!

Available In Stock.

This Cyber Monday Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.

Price : Click to Check Update Prices Please.

Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router

Limited Offer Today!! Porter-Cable 690LR 11-Amp Fixed-Base Router Cyber Monday and Black Friday 2011 Deals

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